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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. However, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest restaurant earning such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary honour.